Fall 2020, Part 1

 

Before the days of Fall were waning, Marc & I got out on a couple of week-long trips north. We tried to go after the start of school hoping that would cut down on site competition, but in the end, the out of the way campgrounds we choose, did the job for us.

We returned to our previous lake but just missed getting that huge site 14, although we easily found another which placed the rig actually closer to the lake. It was a little more awkward to access the kayaks but not terribly so. This trip there was a noticeable difference in bugs and heat, with many days actually being so cool I didn’t care to kayak. We didn’t hit up the next-door lake either, although we did the main lake hiking trail, which runs about two miles around the lake, offering many nice vistas. As it turned out, the campground was mostly empty, even over the weekend and was to close ten days later. On one sunny day, we did take the truck out to explore other nearby campgrounds for future potential.

(We thought this odd natural bark and stick formation from our hike looked exactly like a deer).

In October, we waited out a cool, rainy start and then packed north to the Upper Peninsula during the second week. We left the kayaks behind, knowing it would be too cold to really enjoy them and weighing so much, they are a huge pain to pack and haul if not used daily. I had scoped out a few campgrounds over the internet and the plan was to stop for 2-3 days in each to see if they represented good spots for future trips with the kayaks. As it turned out, we only visited three, but along the way we saw entirely new country wrapped in its fabulous peak fall colors, visited a town I was absolutely smitten with, and thoroughly enjoyed the beauty that is the UP—or Yooper land as it’s called.

Our first stop was actually a municipal free campground, asking for a daily $5 donation, but when I say “municipal” it certainly was not located downtown! Townships in this area can run for many miles, and this one happened to be down a small frost-heaved paved and dirt road where traveling five miles took us about a half hour. Many fine cabins and homes lined Michigamme River and as we crept down the final potholed track into the campground, we found the best and only site on the river empty! At first, not realizing it, we parked on the boat launch gravel area but after a day backed the trailer more onto the grassy area. No one wanted to launch during our stay, save for the one guy we had blocked initially.

We took daily walks but mostly this is a place to hang out and enjoy the beautiful views. The campground features around eight sites, most of which sit on a shelf above the area where we sat by the river and most don’t feature access or view to the river, so we decided if one were to get any other site, the drive in just wasn’t worth it. Anything larger than our trailer would likely have trouble maneuvering as well, since portions of the loop road are steep and came close to hitting our plumbing. Moose Rapids Campground is a beautiful, rustic camp, but one we likely won’t be returning to.

 

 

Listening to Loons

We really enjoy the Northwoods. Especially when we end up lakeside on an undeveloped lake with natural shoreline. We watch as a bald eagle takes flight like he’s striding across the lake, makes a slight dip into the surface and flaps off with its dinner.

 

We’re mesmerized as clouds careen by, casting a pink reflection, moving like a saber across swaths of the darker water. 

Nesting loons provide a sing-song-along all week and an equally entertaining visual display of feeding a young one. Diving, popping up, handing off a small fish into a waiting bill. As we sit shoreline at our waterfront campsite watching, they work the same pattern nightly of feeding cross-lake. Always their calls please and plead: this is totally the stuff you are made to remember. Your mind’s circuits will recall their song as your measurement of the immense pleasure of this trip.

The lake even sports a man made loon nest.

Was it fancy or with hookups? Only in respect to our huge quarter-acre level site, with the most stunning old growth pines we’ve yet to see in Wisconsin. Had for half price on our National Park’s Pass, it costs a mere $52.50 for a week of total, nature-driven bliss. We develop a routine which involves sitting in lakeside conversations, nightly cocktail hour and lots of outdoor cooking, voracious reading, fishing and most fun, kayaking. It is so unbelievably quiet I can’t bear to think of leaving.

 

The good news is that we can return again soon and as the year moves on it should become ever more vacant, although it never totally fills. It has 45 sites, half of which are reservable. A lot of campers are tenters, young with kids and kayaks, and will shortly return to school (maybe).

In addition to the main lake, there are two others, one of which is about the same size with a sandy swimming beach. The day we decide to kayak it, we are the only ones on the entire lake excepting for the loons. In a state with very little public lands, it made us feel wild and free and slightly incredulous.

After crossing the main lake, we tie off the kayaks and hike to the other, small lake, which has a raised boardwalk as its only means of entry because the shoreline is entirely matted bog; spongy to step on, perilous to the extreme to try and traverse. The plants here are other-worldly, including some that are carnivorous.

It’s a bit of a trek to drive to this area on back roads through many small towns and villages, or we’d be going there much more I’m sure. We’re much more prepared for an easier ride next time—Marc just installed air bags to help the suspension on the Chevy.

A Blessing in Disguise

At first, we were very nonplussed by Marc’s sudden lay-off, which greatly interrupted our plans on the road to retirement. As often in life however, further reflection has brought some wonderful conclusions about the situation. For one thing, Marc no longer has to be out amongst the public and can avoid THE stupid people  who refuse to wear masks. His exposure to Covid has likely dropped by 98%. Secondly, he now has time to really attack all those neglected little odd jobs, like cleaning up his shop, that were always shoved to the back burner when he worked. Third, and maybe most importantly, we are getting some free time to really spend together, doing what we want, like putting together the necessary equipment to get into the sport of kayak fishing.

As noted before, my kayak had arrived damaged, so on our first jaunt out in July we had to go with just one and take turns. We found a marvelous Forest Service campground in the UP, which blissfully remained lightly used (even over the weekend) where we had our choice of gorgeous lakeside spots which allowed us easy access to the kayak. We didn’t spring for non-resident fishing licenses due to the cost, but we really both enjoyed exploring the entire shoreline of the lake and testing the kayak’s abilities. With mosquitoes being bad, we set up our screen room and even the kitties were able to enjoy being outside and contained. It was one of the most relaxing times we’ve had in years.

Unfortunately, we moved back into northern WI to find most of the campgrounds in heavy use. The one spot we found in a state forest campground which didn’t take reservations did not thrill us and the water access wasn’t the best so we didn’t even unload the kayak. We drove around checking out many lakeside campgrounds in this area but most are on the reservation system and are fully booked through September. The others we determined we could not easily maneuver the tight turns required. It was very disappointing because the many lakes are like shining jewels and perfect for kayaking!

Meanwhile, back at home, Marc did come across a kayak at Cabela’s which he purchased and can make work for his purposes since it is motor driven. Getting everything set up plus figuring out how to load, unload and haul two large, heavy kayaks on the Chevy has been a feat in itself. It has occupied many hours, and many days. Thank God for mechanical advantage, as he devised a winch system which greatly helps.

Not to be deterred, we’re leaving again Monday to a yet undetermined lake, but you can bet it will be a campground which is first come only. We’ll stay in WI this time so we can fish and hopefully discover a spot nice enough to repeatedly return to. Oh yeah, that’s another advantage of his lay-off; we can now pretend we’re retired and leave during the week days to avoid the Friday rush.